Written on: June 3, 2013 by Ava Caridad
According to market research firm The NPD Group, the total U.S. prestige beauty (sold mainly in U.S. department stores) industry showed an increase of 7% in dollar sales in 2012 vs. 2011.
“Coming off the wave of 2011, one of the most robust sales periods in over a decade for the beauty industry, 2012 has shown some great highs, along with some modest lows,” said Karen Grant, VP & Senior Global Industry Analyst, The NPD Group. All of the U.S. prestige beauty categories posted healthy growth. Prestige skincare sold in U.S. department stores generated the largest growth at 10%, followed by makeup at 7% and fragrance at 5%, compared to 2011.
“Even though consumer confidence continues to waver, there is momentum at both ends of the price and product spectrum. In 2012, along with smaller categories in beauty, we are seeing investment 
spending on premium-priced makeup, skincare and fragrance, as well as premium-priced sets, which lead in growth once again. Even in Europe, where the economic environment is more challenging, the major premium-priced category—fragrance—was positive. Premium-priced products remain one of the brightest spots in beauty and will continue to carve out market share across all categories and geographies in 2013,” said Grant. In addition, the U.S. Food/Drug/Mass channel experienced a nearly 3% increase in sales for total beauty in 2012, versus 2011. Makeup sales posted the biggest increase at 5%, followed by skincare at 3%, while fragrance sales declined 4% in dollar sales, compared to 2011. In National Chain stores, fragrance sales grew 7%.
“In the U.S., although we have seen some tempering in sales performance, compared to 2011, growth remains positive for both the prestige and mass channels. The trend of prestige beauty outpacing mass beauty continues to be evident since the recessionary period of 2009 and will likely continue into 2013,” concluded Grant.
For skin & hair…
Putting on its best face, the total U.S. cosmetics and toiletries market continues to perform well, posting 3.4% growth in 2012, with sales signifying success for both key and niche industry players, according to the recently published Cosmetics & Toiletries USA from global consulting and research firm Kline & Co.
Such a niche player is Elemis—the luxury British spa and skincare brand—who launched
Pro-Intense Lift Effect , a new skin care serum with “remodeling effects” for sagging cheeks and jowls. According to Noella Gabriel, Director of Elemis Product & Treatment Development, as skin ages, there is a need to target the dermal-epidermal junction where skin loses density and starts to sag around the cheeks and jowls. Elemis targets this specific skincare concern with a formulation utilizing a high-tech natural extract of Lupin that is clinically proven to reduce the depth of jowls and tighten the skin, said Gabriel. The product is packaged in Lumson’s TAG system.
Estée Lauder Perfectly Clean Triple-Action Cleanser/Toner/Makeup Remover functions as three products in one. The multi-action formula provides cleansing, long-wear makeup removal and toning benefits. The airy, foam cleanser transforms in to a silky oil that glides easily across dry skin and rinses away to leave skin comforted and clean.
The newly improved OXY Daily Defense Facial Cleanser is a clear, oil-free, invigorating gel gentle enough for everyday. It strips away dirt and oil while it unclogs
pores and helps reduce redness. It contains 2% salicylic acid and is dermatologist tested for everyday maintenance to treat acne-prone skin and help prevent breakouts.
Latvia-based company Helen Herber has launched a new range of Shower Gels formulated to gently cleanse, moisturize and protect skin. Scents include Rose, Melon, Sweet Plum, Coffee and Cornflower. Helen Herber Shower Gels contain 
natural ingredients, and the company’s laboratory and manufacturing complex has been certified in accordance with ISO 22716 and HACCP standards, while the raw materials have obtained ECOCERT certification. Packaging is from M&H Plastics.
New Lysol Touch of Foam hand wash with dual effect is soft on skin and hard on germs. The thick, rich, creamy lather works on
contact to kill 99.9% of germs, while moisturizer enriched micro-bubbles leave skin feeling soft and comfortable after every wash. It comes in three scents: Creamy Vanilla Orchid, Rose & Cherry in Bloom and Wild Berry Bliss.
The TRESemmé Keratin Smooth Collection transforms hair from root to tip, allowing controlled and salon-smooth results at home. TRESemmé Keratin Smooth Keratin Infusing Heat Protection & Shine Spray helps shield hair from the damaging effects of heat styling. TRESemmé Keratin Smooth Keratin Infusing Serum weightlessly helps eliminate frizz and seals in shine for a polished, smooth shine. TRESemmé Platinum Strength Strengthening Heat Protect Spray protects hair against the damaging effects of heat styling including breakage, dryness and frizz.
Dry shampoo still in demand
A shower is no longer necessary when it’s time to suds up hair, according to market research firm Mintel, whose Global New Products Database (GNPD) found that in 2008, dry shampoo introductions accounted for just 1% of global shampoo launch activity, but by 2012, the segment captured 3% of the category and 2013 is on track to surpass 2012 levels.
Although availability of dry shampoos is widely accessible, consumer uptake remains relatively low. Sixteen percent of U.S. adults report some usage of a dry shampoo in the last year. Across the Big Five European markets (UK, Spain, France, Germany and Italy), usage is relatively similar to that of the U.S., but peaks in the UK, where nearly a quarter (23%) of women are engaged in the segment.
Convenience is a compelling attribute for consumers and plays a definite part in their hair care product purchases. Nearly one in five (17%) women in the UK use dry shampoo when they don’t have time to wash their hair, and although this sentiment is less widely shared among the remaining Big Five European countries (only 5% of women), it identifies an important consideration for manufacturers, said Mintel.
Manufacturers have responded to consumers’ preferences by incorporating convenient attributes into their dry shampoo product launches. The time/speed claim has been present in 53% of dry shampoos launched since 2009, making it not only the most frequently used claim in the segment, but also one of the fastest growing, according to Mintel’s GNPD.
Beauty enhancing claims are becoming more commonplace in the dry shampoo category and have been present in 19% of global introductions since 2009. Brightening and illuminating benefits have posted the most significant growth, with introductions more than doubling 220% between 2009 and 2011. In addition, more than half (53%) of U.S women find shampoo and conditioner fragrance to be an important characteristic.
Dry Shampoo by New York Streets is formulated to bring life back into oily hair for the girl
on the go. Inspired by busy trendsetters, the product offers a clean, odor-free, voluminous look, according to the company. It can be thrown into a gym bag for a post-workout pick-me-up or added to roots for a burst of volume. Multi-functional Dry Shampoo is suitable for all hair colors and leaves no white residue on brunette hair.
New Garnier Fructis Volume Extend Instant Bodifier Dry Shampoo, with a blend 
of orange citrus and grape extract, immediately refreshes lifeless locks for a full 24 hours, according to the company. The product is sprayed into flat hair and combed or brushed through to absorb oil and eliminate weight.
RUSK has two new additions to its Deepshine Color Care collection—Deepshine Color Care Invisible Dry Shampoo and Deepshine Lock-In Treatment. Launched 
this month, the at-home, color-care styling formulations are designed to extend time between colorings by protecting against the three main causes of color fade: wash out, sun damage and thermal styling. Both products are developed with ChromAveil, a patented, UV protection technology that helps preserve chemically-colored and natural hair color, as well as a Marine Nutrient 
Complex.
Deepshine Color Care Invisible Dry Shampoo instantly cleanses and revives hair between shampoos by absorbing excess oil and odor with a talc-free formula that is invisible when applied and leaves behind a fresh, clean scent. Deepshine Color Care Lock-In Treatment nourishes and conditions hair while extending time between colorings. The alcohol-free formula features Glycolic Acid to help strengthen hair, defend against breakage and improve manageability; Vitamin E and Pro-Vitamin B5 to protect and repair, and Amodimethicone to defend hair from environmental stressors while facilitating wet/dry combing and offering anti-static protection and enhanced shine.
Separating the men from the boys
Over nine in 10 men use some sort of grooming products today, such as skin care (facial and body), shaving, hair care and fragrance. The men’s grooming industry generated $964 million in U.S. department store sales in 2011, an increase of 11%, compared to 2010, according to market research firm The NPD Group’s Men’s Grooming Consumer Report. Facial cleansers (excluding bar soap), facial lotions/moisturizers and lip products are the most commonly used products among male facial skincare users. Men’s facial skin care grew 11% in dollars in 2011.
“Men have become increasingly conscious of the perks associated with looking good,” said Karen Grant of The NPD Group. “They have a heightened awareness that looking good may provide them an advantage in the workplace as well as in their personal lives.”
“Men have different skin than women and the men’s grooming brands need to continue educating them, as well as make them feel comfortable in the shopping environment to gain sales in this category,” Grant added. According to The NPD Group, facial skin care product users are more likely to be ethnic men and men aged 18-34.
John Masters Organics introduced the new Men’s Eucalyptus & Agave 2-in-1 Face Wash & Shave Foam to combine the daily cleansing and shaving routine into one simple process. Using a host of organic ingredients, the rich foam rinses away easily and leaves skin feeling smooth and refreshed with the light scent of eucalyptus and lavender. The foam is lightweight, making it a suitable consistency for both shaving and cleansing.
Cooling and antibacterial, the organic eucalyptus oil’s aromatherapeutic properties stimulate while lavender essential oil balances and calms skin. Naturally anti-inflammatory and antiseptic, witch hazel leaf water and willow bark extract work to protect and soothe the irritation that commonly occurs after shaving. Aloe vera leaf juice and agave leaf extract create a barrier that locks in moisture while promoting collagen production and skin renewal. Prickly pear soothes, organic algae and rice extracts firm and moisturize, while gotu kola acts as a wound healer to help prevent fine lines and wrinkles.
Gold Bond Ultimate Hydrating Men’s Essentials Lotion offers everyday moisturizing for 
body, hands and face. The formula is non-greasy, long-lasting, has a light, neutral fresh scent and is suitable for preventative daily use. The package uses a EuroFlow lotion pump from Aptar.
Edge has launched Edge Ultimate Shave Gel from Energizer contains an anti-irritation agent to soothe, moisturize, protect, cleanse, and soften. It’s available in three scents: Ultimate Achiever, Ultimate Contender and Ultimate Magnet.
New Aveeno Active Naturals Men’s Shave Gel is specially formulated for men’s skin care and shaving needs. Used in combination with other Aveeno Naturals Men’s products, the fragrance-free shave gel can help calm, moisturize and protect skin, as well as help prevent razor irritation and bumps. The rich, lubricating shave gel, formulated with colloidal oatmeal, is suitable for sensitive or irritated skin. A special blend of moisturizers helps reduce dryness. The product’s formulation is protected in a BOV system and gel spout from Aptar.
Dial’s Right Guard Sport Antiperspirant & Deodorant in a fresh scent aerosol offers “3D odor defense.” Its sweat and odor blockers have 100% more odor blocks than before, according to the company, offers 24 hour protection and dries on contact.
Fragrance for all…
Fragrances for men and women have been around for centuries, but more marketers are now targeting alternate age groups to grow sales.
For women, fashion accessories leader Coach, in conjunction with Estée Lauder, is rolling out Coach Love, a floral “to match the romantic side of a woman’s personality.” The fragrance is the third from Coach and has top notes of mandarin, dewberry, green violet and freesia, with a heart of magnolia, jasmine and gardenia, and a dry down of sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla, caramel and musk. Coach Love EDP is available in three sizes: 1oz, 1.7oz and 3.4oz, as well as a 5oz body lotion and 5oz shower gel. The scent was developed by Firmenich.
Baldessarini launched new fragrance Secret Mission for men. The head notes open with a 
blend of bergamot, basil and fresh cypress. The heart consists of cardamom, geranium leaves and lavender, with a base note of cedar wood, warm musk and Oriental oud wood. The composition was created in cooperation with IFF.
For Tweens, the Cupcake Me line from Brazil’s L’acqua di Fiori represents the sweet side of life with two 100ml fragrances 
inspired by the American cupcake. Napolitano Chic has initial notes of cherry, vanilla and grapefruit. The body has notes of lavender and jasmine with a touch of condensed milk and, finally, strawberry, sandalwood and sweet chords. Caramelo Divertido has initial notes of bergamot, orange and caramel. The body has the lightness of jasmine, geranium and lily of the valley and, finally, musk, sandalwood and patchouli. The red cherry-shaped cap was created using DuPont Surlyn. SPRAY
