Written on: June 1, 2012 by Ava Caridad
In 2011, skincare and fragrance sold in U.S. department stores both posted double-digit dollar growths of 14% and 11% respectively, while makeup grew a healthy 9%, compared to 2010.
“In the U.S., UK, and China, prestige beauty is enjoying one of the most robust sales periods ever,” said Karen Grant, VP & Senior Global Industry Analyst at market research firm The NPD Group. “In the U.S., for example, beauty sales in both the mass and prestige channels were positive month after month in 2011. From the impressive increases in prestige skincare to the continued gains in makeup, to the double-digit rebound of fragrance, prestige beauty is experiencing a time of unprecedented growth.”
In continental Europe, where the prestige market is more mature, growth is more tempered, and performance among the categories has not been as dynamic as in the U.S. or UK, according to Grant, but nonetheless, prestige beauty managed to flourish.
In addition, the U.S. Food/Drug/Mass channel (excluding Wal-Mart) experienced a 4% increase in sales for total beauty in 2011, versus 2010. Makeup sales posted the biggest increase at 8%, followed by skincare at 3%, while fragrance sales declined 5% in dollar sales, compared to 2010. In national chain stores, fragrance sales grew 5%.
Hair care made sensible
2010 marked the third consecutive year that total U.S. hair care value sales declined. However, 2010’s small decline was much lower compared with the previous two years, according to Euromonitor International. Value-oriented brands, which promise salon-quality technology or natural ingredients, may perform well, especially as the economy recovers.
One such mass product offering salon results is TRESemme Split Remedy, formulated with a Reconstructing Complex that repairs up to 80% of split-ends in just three uses. With continued use, the salon-quality formula continues to bind splitends for a smooth look that lasts and keeps working to help prevent new splits from occurring. Leave-In Conditioning Spray and Split End Sealing Serum both use dispensing systems supplied by Aptar Beauty+Home.
Dove Style+Care Strength & Shine Flexible Hold Hairspray with Nutri-Style Complex has a fast-drying, water-free, frizz-proof formula that helps to strengthen and set style with a flexible hold, while enhancing hair’s natural luminosity.
Dove Style+Care Strength & Shine Extra Hold Hairspray with Nutri-Style Complex provides a strong hold that fights frizz and fly-aways while adding body and volume.
Extra Hold Hairspray uses a Euromist spray pump and Flexible Hold Hairspray uses VX 81 valve system with Eurostar actuator, both from Aptar.
Luster Products’ Pink Sheen Spray is a lightweight formula that contains mink oil and wheat germ oil. The product provides long lasting shine while conditioning the hair. It also contains a sunscreen to help protect from harmful and drying effects of the sun. The can is from DS Containers.
Transform any style from day-old to amazing with the new Redken Powder Refresh 01 aerosol hair powder/dry shampoo. It absorbs oil, neutralizes odors and helps extend the life of a blow-dry while leaving hair refreshed. Powder Refresh 01 is the newest addition to Redken’s Style Connection line of unique formulas. The lightweight aerosol spray goes on sheer, making it virtually impossible to over-apply. The colorless formula leaves no residue and buildup and feels neither dry nor wet. It’s a versatile essential that allows for even more days between shampoos, builds a base for updo’s or corrects product over-use in a flash. Powder Refresh 01 comes in a large (3.4 oz) and mini size (1.2oz) to help transform any hairstyle at home or on-the-go.
Batiste Diva Dry Shampoo revitalizes greasy, dull and lifeless hair in between washes with a heady oriental fragrance. It instantly leaves hair feeling clean and full of body. Other scents include Original, Blush, BoHo, Tropical, Professional and Fresh.
In addition to the standard 5.5fl.oz size, new sizes include the larger 6.73fl.oz and 1.6fl.oz On the Go size, designed to fit in a purse for convenience in a can.
Skin care, naturally…
In 2011, skin care sold in U.S. department stores posted double-digit dollar growth of 14% while skin care sold at food/drug/mass channels experienced a 3% increase in sales, according to NPD.
New on the market is Alba Botanica Natural Even Advanced Cleansing Milk, a soap-free milk cleanser that removes any traces of the day. The product uses 100% vegetarian ingredients and features sea lettuce extract to stimulate cell regeneration to produce a more even skin tone. It uses a lotion dispenser supplied by Aptar Beauty + Home.
Molton Brown’s new anti-aging collections promise time-poor women a touch of luxury with a simple regime. Malachite Cleansing Gelle and Pink Toronja Refining Toner were formulated for normal to oily skin. The clinically proven Anti-ageing Hydra-crèmes—such as the Rosa Fruit Anti-aging Hydra-crème for oily skin—help lock in moisture and soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles to keep skin looking younger. Other products in the Molton Brown Skincare Collection include Kalahari Melon Cleansing Fluid, Tamarind Fruit Refining Toner, Peruvian Maca Anti-aging Hydra-crème, Creole Grass Anti-ageing Hydra-crème, Vita B3 Eye Concentrate, Pep-rich Lip Booster and Karanja Tree Sunshield.
Nature Scent skin and personal care products from Faran Cosmetic unveiled its latest line of hand creams and body lotions. The new, EcoCert certified products are paraben-free and not tested on animals. Formulated from a blend of organics, with natural essential oils and firming nutrients to hydrate and stimulate the skin, they appeal to consumers seeking an all-natural ingredient experience. The products sport a 75mL Mezzo top fill pump from Mega Airless.
Cosmetic sales increase
In 2011, cosmetics sold in U.S. department stores grew 9% compared with 2010; the U.S. food/drug/mass channel experienced an 8% increase in sales for makeup.
Following the success of Sublime Elixir, Dr. Pierre Ricaud launched its new eye serum Sublime Regarde, a cosmetic product that completes the Essence de Beautè anti-aging line. It rejuvenates the area surrounding the eyes—a fragile and sensitive area that can give the face a tired and prematurely aged look. Sublime Regarde comes in a customized bottle, pump and cap from Lumson.
Revlon PhotoReady Airbrush Mousse Makeup is an air-infused mousse makeup that goes on “light-as-air” while also helping perfect the look of skin. It mimics the results of a sitting in a professional makeup artist’s chair by providing the appearance of a perfectly blended, smooth and poreless complexion at a fraction of the cost. It contains photochromatic pigments that bend and reflect light to minimize flaws in any setting, from indoor fluorescent light to full outdoor sunlight. The whipped texture provides blending and undetectable, breathable coverage The oil-and fragrance-free formula comes in shades of Vanilla, Shell, Nude, Natural Beige, Medium Beige, Golden Beige, Rich Ginger and Caramel. It comes in a container from Exal with a valve from Precision. It’s filled by Precise.
Micas & Minerals
The spray deodorant category—aerosol sprays, nonaerosol sprays and squeeze-bottle sprays—constitutes the largest deodorant market world-wide, according to Euromonitor International. Rising levels of disposable income, better living and hygiene standards in the developing markets of Asia, Latin America and the Middle East are propelling rapid worldwide growth in deodorants. Various fragrances launched over the last few years have enhanced the number of choices available to consumers in terms of brand names, quality and performance.
Asia-Pacific, although a small market, offers substantial growth potential and is expected to have the highest growth rate of about 5%. Sales in that region are also stimulated by introduction of new products from foreign companies, massive advertising of major brands and a high degree of consumer acceptance.
Europe represents a dominant market for deodorants, stimulated by demand from western European countries such as UK, Germany, Italy, France and Spain. The region accounts for the largest share of the worldwide market, which is witnessing growing demand for new delivery formats, such as compact sprays, wipes and creams, which are bringing innovation and expansion opportunities to the maturing European deodorants market.
Two new European launches include Dove Beauty Finish, an aerosol deodorant that includes pearlescent mica, a beauty mineral that, according to the company, is known to enhance the natural appearance of skin and help underarms look good all day long. Pearlescent mica offers a smooth finish, and, coupled with Dove’s 1/4 moisturizing cream, helps the product stay effective and skin-friendly.
Big growth in Chinese beauty sales
According to research conducted by market research company The NPD Group, total prestige beauty in China, increased 21% in 2011, versus 2010 (Prestige constitutes products sold mainly in department stores and Sephora stores in the top 10 cities in the mainland of China). The skincare and makeup categories each showed healthy growth of 23% and 17%, respectively.
In prestige skincare, all the segments (face essence, face moisturizer, face basic care, eye, sun treatment, body, and all others) had steady growth, with face essence (+25%) and moisturizer (+21%) taking the lead by capturing nearly half of skincare sales.
Anti-aging continued drive the market, comprising half of the skincare category sales and posting a robust growth of nearly 27% in 2011, compared to 2010. Hydrating (+19%) and whitening (+15%) skincare also played a big role in category growth.
In prestige makeup, the facial segment captured 59% of the category’s dollar share and increased 18% in dollar sales from 2010. Products that make the face look lighter and smoother, such as foundation and makeup base, led the facial category, up 24 and 30%, respectively.
According to the new report Beauty Retailing Through Direct Sales in Emerging Markets 2011: Channel Analysis and Opportunities from consulting and research firm Kline & Co., beauty sales through the Internet in China have been growing at a rate of nearly 200% since 2006 and are estimated to be worth nearly $8 billion at the retail sales level in 2011, making it the largest Internet beauty
market in the world.
“To put this into perspective, Chinese online beauty sales in 2011 are nearly equal in size to the entire beauty market for France, which is the largest market for cosmetics and toiletries in Europe,” explained Karen Doskow, Industry Manager at Kline. “Furthermore, Chinese Internet beauty sales are nearly nine times larger than the U.S. Internet beauty market.”
“The rapid growth of Internet usage over the past five years has given way to a tremendous surge in sales and availability of local and foreign cosmetic and toiletry brands,” said Li Wang, VP of Kline Asia. “Internet user numbers in China approached 457 million in 2011, up from 137 million in 2006. Online buyers now total some 205 million in 2011.”
Further driving the online phenomenon are “e-malls,” such as Tiantian.com and Alibaba’s Tmall in China, which enable customers to buy from a wide range of domestic and foreign skin care and makeup brands in a convenient one-stop shop.
“We expect the growth of these portals to remain quite robust, driven by continually improving socio-economic dynamic, as well as an increasing appetite for Internet convenience among all consumers,” added Doskow.
According to Kline’s research, the person-to-person model is still dominant in Brazil, the largest BRIC market where players such as Avon and Natura are entrenched. Although the online beauty business is growing, consumers in this market still prefer the personal attention afforded by a consultant.
Garnier Mineral Clean Sensation Deodorant is a double action deodorant that provides effective protection against sweat and odor. It contains an exclusive anti-bacterial ingredient to neutralize the bacteria that cause odors, helping users to feel clean and fresh. Enriched with Mineralite, known for its absorbing qualities, the anti-perspirant formula leaves consumers feeling clean, dry and sweat-free for up to 48 hours. The subtle, pure scent adds to the feeling of freshness.
The Scents of Summer
The global fragrance industry is set for a potential rebound, according to Irina Barbalova, Head of Beauty & Personal Care Research, Euromonitor International. While activity around celebrity launches has escalated
over the past year, the industry may be in need of a more unique innovation approach to return to pre-recession levels of growth.
For suppliers and manufacturers alike, this means finding ways of reaching out to consumers through novel scent combinations and customized offerings, but
also using personalized approaches to marketing and advertising. The return of economic confidence in some of the more vulnerable markets will bring back stronger demand for exclusive, higher quality and luxury niche scents.
The crossover with the fashion industry is becoming increasingly pronounced. Most clothing retailers now have their own scents, such as Guess, who, along with several other marketers, has launched seasonal, summer-themed fragrances.
Guess Seductive Sunkissed is a new, light-weight fragrance that adds a fresh twist to the Guess Seductive EDT. Capturing the carefree spirit of summer, the scent has sparkling top notes of pear, raspberry, pink grapefruit and black current blossom that give way to Brazilian orchid, jasmine and vanilla.
New from Lavanila Laboratories is its limited edition summer scent, Vanilla Summer. The blend of alluring essential oils evokes the calming, soft breeze of the tropics. Fresh mango, juicy pineapple, creamy coconut milk and island sugar cane are steeped in a sultry base of warm Madagascar vanilla, creating a blend that infuses hot summer nights with a whispering, seductive breeze. The all-natural EDP is created using essential oils and vitamin-rich botanicals from all over the world and is packed with a healthy dose of antioxidants.
Inspired by the Pacific Ocean and California lifestyle, CaliBlue from AromaEarth is a new unisex citrus fragrance created specifically to help an important cause. Ten percent of sales from Cali Blue will be used to build fresh water wells in third world countries. Cali Blue has citrus top notes of lemon, orange mandarin and bergamot. These come together with a floral bouquet of lily, lavender, rose and a whisper of night blooming jasmine in the middle. Bottom layers of amber, vanilla and musky sage finish off the beachy aroma. The perfume juice is a bright blue to mimic the color of the ocean.
According to a new study, Men’s Grooming Consumer Report conducted by The NPD Group, over 90% of men (ages 18+) are using some sort of grooming product today, which can include facial and body skincare, shaving, hair care, and fragrance. For guys who like to suds up in the shower, Dial for Men launched Speed Foam, a gel-to-foam body wash. Each can contains 40 washes using a self-foaming gel that helps men get lathered up and rinsed clean “without loofahs, sandpaper or power tools.” Scents include Active Sport, Ultra Clean and Arctic Refresh.
